Two Perfect Days in Dublin: Our Real Itinerary and Honest Reviews
Think you need a week to experience Dublin? Think again. While Ireland’s capital deserves far more than a whirlwind visit, you can still pack an incredible amount into just full two days and three nights. From centuries-old cathedrals and world-class museums to lively pubs, unforgettable food, riverside strolls, and a few wonderfully unexpected surprises, our mother-daughter trip proved that even a short stay can leave you completely charmed. This is exactly how we spent two days in Dublin before setting off on our Irish road trip.
Authors Note: I give personal ratings for all tourist attractions we visited, and pubs/restaurants/food stops we dined at.
Dublin Day 1: A Long Awaited Return and Irish Hospitality
Returning to Ireland After 14 Years
After 14 years, I finally get to return to this marvelous green land and dedicate the time it deserves to exploring it. My Mom has been itching to come to Ireland for many years, so I’m happy she gets to tick this off her Bucket List by having a couple days in Dublin before embarking on what is going to be an epic Mother-Daughter Irish Road Trip, one that we have meticulously planned out to cover some of the greatest hits of this beautiful land. ♥️🇮🇪
First Impressions & Irish Hospitality
Before commencing our voyage, I told my Mom that Irish people are super kind and welcoming. Yes, it’s an “absolute” and I rarely like to use absolutes, but this one has once again already been affirmed multiple times.
From Edward, our incredibly kind taxi driver who thoroughly explained the rules of the road to us and even acted as an unprompted and enthusiastic tour guide by pointing out the bullet holes in various buildings and statues left over from rebel fighting during the 1916 Easter Rising. 
Then to the very welcoming and generous employees of J Sheehans pub who were only too apologetic that these two exhausted ladies had to sit on high stools around a barrel to enjoy a meal. Their food was delicious and they were delighted by how much we enjoyed it.
(J Sheehans overall rating: 9/10 because they served phenomenal food, a wide variety of beers and cocktails, and they were very accommodating.)
Now on to our first full day!
Dublin Day 2: Museums, Temple Bar & Irish Pubs
Breakfast at All Rosey Coffee
Today was a long day that started off at a very welcome snail’s pace. We grabbed a late breakfast consisting of a poppyseed passion fruit pastry and a pistachio cinnamon roll from a tiny but divine bakery called All Rosey Coffee.
(Rating: 9/10 because the food was more than worthy of a revisit if we had the time, my Mother loved their coffee, and it was the perfect start to what was going to be a full, busy day.)
An Unexpected Irish Wolfhound Encounter
On our way to visit the National Gallery of Ireland, we took a short detour through the gorgeous St. Stephen’s Green Park and stumbled upon a walking tour led by, no joke, a man wearing a very legit looking armored chest plate and his small army of Irish Wolf Hounds escorted by the tourists. 
I’ll take 1500 for “Tours I Wished I Knew About Beforehand”! 
(For information about the “Irish Wolfhound Experience” walking tour, click here.)
After being mere inches away from fulfilling my most obscure Bucket List wish of being smothered by a pack of Irish Wolfhounds, my Mother and I continued on our journey.
(St. Stephen’s Greek Park rating: 9/10 because it’s a beautiful park with a lovely lake in the middle, it’s a pleasant place to immerse yourself in nature with a good book or soak up the sun [when it’s out], and there was information posted about the history of the park and of the 1916 Easter Uprising.)
The National Gallery of Ireland
The National Gallery of Ireland is no Louvre, but it still contains some stunning works of art from some of history’s most prolific 17th century artists like Caravaggio, Rembrandt, Orazio Gentileschi, Lanfranco, El Greco, Ribera, Velasquez, and Vermeer. 
(Rating: 9/10 because it’s notably free and has some great art.)
Visiting St. Patrick's Cathedral
Next up was a visit to St. Patrick’s Cathedral. Just as I had felt last time I visited Dublin, I found this cathedral to be distinctly underwhelming compared to other European churches. But if you happen to be from the US and St. Patrick’s just happens to be your first visit to any European church, then you may find it to be the most gorgeous church you’ve ever stepped foot in.
(Rating: 4/10 because it’s overpriced to visit and it is not as awe-inspiring as one would hope.)
Exploring Temple Bar
Next up was a casual stroll in the rain through Dublin’s most popular neighborhood, Temple Bar.
But first, I felt compelled to slip into a cute souvenir shop to pick up another magnet to add to my collection of travel magnets that never see the light of day and a new journal to fill with all my worries and woes. 
If you don’t like crowds, then it’s best to avoid the profound hustle and bustle that is Temple Bar on a weekend. As it was a Saturday and packed to the gills, we had to briefly escape the crowds by ducking into the nearest shop that caught our attention.
Of course, I am speaking of the Basic Instincts Adult and Fetish Store. 
Shhhh, don’t tell my Mom… wait, she was with me. 
(Temple Bar rating: 7/10 because there are definitely cool shops and good food stops and it is visually charming, but it is very packed with people, very loud, and full of drunks.)
A Snack Along the River Liffey and a Stop at Decathlon
After ogling and giggling at numerous designs of leather kilts in the fetish store, we were in much need of a refreshment. We took a short break at an absolutely darling cafe along the River Liffey called Irish Potato Cake Company.
Three guesses as to what their most popular dish was! 
After a delightful, shared meal of Irish Coffee, freshly squeezed orange juice, and Irish Potato Cakes, we made a beeline for my favorite department store, Decathlon, where I was able to purchase another cute Quechua mini backpack.
(Irish Potato Cake Company rating: 8/10 because it was darling, perfectly located along the Liffey, and yummy.)
An Evening at O'Neill's Pub and an Historic Football Match
After six miles of walking, we were in need of a short Irish siesta before heading out for the evening.
By 7:00 PM, we were strolling the streets searching for another Irish restaurant or pub for dinner. Lo and behold, every place we stopped in was packed with tourists and locals alike. Unbeknownst to us, there was a big football/soccer game on, and all the diners and drinkers were using their last bits of sobriety to keep their eyes glued to the television screens.
Finally, we found an available table in a classic pub called O’Neill’s, that also came equipped with a television running the football match and a few dozen or so viewers.
I ordered some food at the bar and my Mother and I settled in to watch the game. Now, I don’t watch football or really any sport beyond tennis or the Olympics, but even I know when a match is in overtime and then progresses to Sudden Death. 
Boy it was nerve-wracking, but, in the end, Paris beat Arsenal in what I am sure will turn out to be a historical match. Our dinner at O’Neill’s was mediocre, but the ambience of the pub and the match were epic!
(O’Neill’s Pub rating: 5/10 because it’s a cool, classic pub, but the food took forever to arrive and was not particularly edible.)
Ending the Night at The Brazen Head
After sharing some desert at a local ice-cream shop, we headed to what is claimed to be Ireland’s oldest pub, The Brazen Head. (Spoiler! The oldest pub in Ireland [and perhaps the world] is actually Sean’s Bar in Athlone that dates back to 900 AD, but, at a founding date of 1198, The Brazen Head firmly ranks as the second oldest pub in Ireland).
We wanted to hear some live Irish Music and were able to find a table in a secluded room to wait for it to begin. But the time we had read the music was supposed to start (9 pm) came and went. The singer was already there, but apparently the singing was not going to start until 10.
So, exhausted and a little sad we couldn’t finish our night on a loud note, we left.
(The Brazen Head rating: 7/10 because the atmosphere was pretty great, but we both really wish the music had started earlier.)
Dublin Day 3: Trinity College, Guinness & One Last Evening
Breakfast at Balfes
It was a late night writing and a late morning rising. On recommendation from a hotel staff, we caught breakfast at a spot called Balfes. It was within a hotel and the ambience was nice, but the coffee was unbelievably bitter and undrinkable, the hollandaise sauce from the eggs benedict required extra salt and a heavy squirt of fresh lemon to make it edible, and the bread it was served on was so hard it would have been easier to chew through a brick. It definitely was a waste of €50. 
(Balfes rating: 2/10 because it was way overpriced, my Mother hated her coffee [and they still charged us for it], and they did not know how to make hollandaise sauce.)
Trinity College & The Book of Kells
fter stopping to admire some stunning flowers being sold along a street and picking up some chocolate truffles from Butlers to enjoy later, we headed on over to Trinity College.
had visited Trinity College to see the Book of Kells 14 years back, but the experience this time round had transformed into something significantly more refined and polished. It was more informative, more elaborate, and simply wonderful!
rinity College rating: 10/10 because the campus is cool, our student guide was knowledgeable and funny, and the Book of Kells exhibit was simply perfect.
A Quick Donut Stop
After filling our brains with extravagant Celtic Art history, we took a short pitstop at The Rolling Donut to partake on some very beautiful but simply average tasting donuts (such a shame since we rarely partake in such decadence).
(The Rolling Donut rating: 3/10 because the donuts were pretty, but the taste was not worth the caloric intake.)
Evensong at Christ Church Cathedral
Then we hurried over to Christ Church for Evensong, which was pleasant but not the magic, complete with a booming organ and powerful singing voices, we were hoping for.
Before departing we asked one of the priests if we could visit the crypt but were told we could do so if we returned when it reopened in an hour or so.
(Rating: 3/10 because we’ve heard much better Evensong.)
A Delicious Palestinian Lunch
With some time to kill, we embarked on another hunt for a snack.
After dining on such heavy cuisine for the last couple days, I felt the need for fiber and selected a charming Middle-Eastern place just outside of Temple Bar called Falafel.
We each had a delicious complimentary lentil soup and shared a fabulous plate of Palestinian falafels, with hummus, salad, and steaming hot flat bread.
(Rating: 10/10 because the food was fresh, delicious, and affordable, and the restaurant was beautifully decorated.)
An Unexpected Classic Car
After stepping out of Falafel we were immediately greeted by the sight of one of the most beautiful cars we had ever seen — a 1950’s Cherry Apple Red Chevrolet Bel Air with original red and white interior… in Dublin… with the steering wheel on the right.
The owners hopped out of the car and shared that this particular Bel Air was the very last one purchased in the UK. 😯
It was certainly an unexpected sight to behold!
Returning to Christ Church
Afterward we hurried back to Christ Church where we were almost denied entry into the crypt. Apparently, the priest was not supposed to promise us entry into the crypt without a ticket.
But the docent liked us so much that we were granted entry anyway. 
Was it Irish hospitality or pity, I may never know!
Unbeknownst to me, I had been in the crypt before because I recognized the same display of costumes from the television show The Tudors still on display.
(Christ Church Cathedral and Crypt rating: 6/10 because it was not very crowded, the docent was very kind, and the crypt had some interesting artifacts.)
The Guinness Storehouse
Next up was a 20-minute walk to the Guinness Storehouse.
Now, I’m not much of a drinker, in fact, the last beer I ever had may have been 14 years ago at the Guinness Storehouse.
But going here isn’t about drinking Guinness — it’s about learning how it is perfected through science.
From using liquid nitrogen to scorching hot temperatures and everything in between, the Guinness Storehouse is pure and simple an education in brewing science that even those boring-ass people whose favorite beverage is water will find fascinating. 
Plus, the Gravity Bar on the 7th floor is epic and offers 360-degree views over Dublin. 
(The Guinness Storehouse rating: 10/10 because it flawlessly blends history, science, and a smooth, modern design all in one building, it does not feel like it’s overly packed with people because there are assigned timeslots for tickets [meaning, yes, they can become fully booked for a particular day], and the Gravity Bar has the best views over the city and it posts what buildings you are looking at in the distance.)
One Last Dinner Before the Road Trip
We remained in the Gravity Bar (sipping on our beer and eating our chocolate truffles saved from earlier) until past closing and it had nearly cleared of people (a far cry from the first time I had entered it on St. Paddy’s Day 2012 when it was brimming with people and an epic band of bagpipers).
We then had a slow mile-long walk back to our hotel, Graftons.
But feeling the need for salt and hydration (I have POTS and it requires a diet that is bountiful in both), we pulled into The Hairy Lemon pub across from our hotel and shared a bowl of soup and a delightful entree of Chicken Vol Au Vent and heavily salted chips/fries for dinner. (Rating: 8/10 because they were very accommodating and the food was very good.)
Another successful day finished, now let the road trip begin! 🇮🇪🚙