Riga, the vibrant capital of Riga, is one of those places that quietly sneaks up on you and then refuses to let go. My mother and I arrived expecting charming streets and a bit of history, but what we found was a city bursting with personality, creativity, and some of the most memorable food we’ve ever encountered. From the first stroll through the Old Town, we were enchanted by the intricate façades, pastel hues, and the unmistakable elegance of Riga’s world-famous Art Nouveau architecture. Every corner felt like a gallery, every building a story waiting to be told.
Art Nouveau at Its Finest
A Birthday Welcome and Mediaeval Dinner
We based ourselves at the beautiful Dome Hotel, and it truly shaped our entire experience in the best way. From the moment we arrived, we were welcomed with a handwritten birthday card for me, a gorgeous complimentary fruit basket, and chocolate truffles, which made our stay feel extra special.
We celebrated my birthday at Rozengrāls, a candlelit underground spot serving rich medieval cuisine. The atmosphere was immersive, the food was hearty and flavorful, and it felt like stepping into another century for the night.
Dome Cathedral
Just steps away, we spent time exploring the magnificent Riga Cathedral, also known as the Dome Cathedral, one of the city’s most important historical and cultural landmarks. Dating back to the 13th century, it stands as a testament to Riga’s layered history, blending Romanesque, Gothic, and Baroque architectural styles. Inside, the cathedral is both grand and serene, with an atmosphere that invites quiet reflection and a deep appreciation for the centuries of stories held within its walls.
The Food, the Glorious Food
If there’s one thing that completely won us over, it was Riga’s food culture. Truly, nearly everything we ate was beautifully presented and delicately delicious throughout the city. It seemed that every food stop in Riga somehow manages to make its culinary indulgence feel like an essential part of the tourism experience. Even our hotel breakfast came with literally the best Eggs Benedict my mother and I ever had in our lives.
Turns Out, Chocolate Heaven Does Exist
But the one delicacy that really stood out to us was the Black Magic Bar. No, this is not some hokey tourist trap trying to sell you tales of a darker history when people mixed all sorts of nasties to make a cure-all tonic. Black Magic is, of all things, a chocolate bar, one that would fit quite nicely in the dreams of every chocolate aficionado. We found ourselves returning not once but twice to this dramatic and slightly spooky spot that felt like part chocolate heaven, part theatrical experience, complete with a very real suit of armor and a hidden stairwell behind a bookcase. Their handmade chocolates were easily some of the best we have ever tasted, and sampling them in such a unique setting made it even more memorable.
The Cutest Souvenirs Ever
Beyond the food and architecture, we fell in love with Riga’s small creative shops. One of our favorite discoveries was JD Bracelet, a charming boutique filled with crocheted and knitted stuffed animals and beautifully detailed beaded jewelry. Meeting the owner was a highlight, as she was incredibly kind and passionate about her work. She told us her handmade stuffed animals are shipped all over the world, which made selecting a darling little frog for my months-old godson feel even more important. That little frog now has a home in sunny California.
A Latvian Dentist's Office,
a Surprising Place of Relaxation
Not all of our memories were planned, though. At one point, my mom lost a tooth filling, which could have been a disaster. Instead, she quickly found a dentist in Riga who saw her right away in a chic, modern office. The dentist was excellent, spoke perfect English, and fixed everything at a surprisingly affordable price. My mom still talks about it as a better experience than any dental visit back home.
Unashamed Decathlon Mania
Of course, no trip to Europe would be complete without a slightly excessive shopping moment. For me, that meant a pilgrimage to Decathlon, my absolute favorite European sporting goods store, which comes with significantly more affordable merchandise (without losing its high quality) that can be found in the US. I stocked up on what can only be described as an unreasonable number of black leggings and spandex shorts. At one point, our hotel bed was completely covered in black bottoms, with exactly one colorful outfit belonging to my mom standing out like a cheerful rebel. It was both ridiculous and completely on brand for me, after all, everyone who knows me knows that I am partial to almost always wearing black bottoms (to represent my practicality) and colorful, often rhinestone-covered shirts (to represent my vibrant side).
A Story of a Very Clever Form of Revenge
Riga also has a playful side that reveals itself in the most unexpected ways. One of our favorite little stories was discovering the famous Cat House, where two black cats sit perched on the rooftop. According to local legend, they were once positioned rather cheekily in protest of a neighboring guild, adding a bit of humor to the city’s already rich history. It is touches like this that make wandering through Riga feel both charming and full of personality.
Riga gave us beautiful architecture, unforgettable meals, delightful surprises, and stories we will be telling for years. It is a city that balances elegance with warmth and history with humor. Whether you come for the art, the food, or simply the atmosphere, Riga has a way of making you feel both inspired and completely at ease. We arrived as curious travelers and left completely enchanted, grateful for the handful of days we had to soak up the wonders of the capital city of Latvia.