Kilkenny: 24 Hours in Ireland's Mediaeval City
If Ireland had a competition for the country’s most charming mediaeval city, Kilkenny would be a strong contender, if not automatically declared the winner. With its colorful streets, centuries-old landmarks, at least one legendary pub, and thriving food scene, this compact city is the perfect destination for a 24-hour escape. We only had one day to explore, but it was enough time to make my Mother and I fall for Kilkenny’s unique blend of history, hospitality, and excellent food, and wish we could have had another day to take an even deeper dive into such a fascinating city.
Start with a Stroll Through the Mediaeval Mile
You should start your day with a light breakfast; something just enough to fuel a morning of wandering while leaving room for lunch. A delicious vegan feta, mushroom, and tomato toastie from our hotel was plentiful for me.
After breakfast, it’s time to go for a wander into the heart of the city. Kilkenny is wonderfully walkable. Brightly painted shopfronts line narrow streets that have welcomed merchants and travelers for centuries. Much of the city forms part of the famous Mediaeval Mile, a historic route connecting Kilkenny Castle with, in my opinion, the highlight of our visit: St. Canice’s Cathedral and its 1200-year-old Irish Round Tower, one of the very few in the country that can still be climbed to this day.
Walking along the Mediaeval Mile is a joyful experience unto itself. It’s the kind of place where you don’t need an itinerary; you’ll find simply strolling through it and popping into little shops you find along the way to be immensely fun.
One of our favorite stops was an independent bookstore bursting with books on Irish folklore. Obviously, I couldn’t leave empty-handed. I picked up a beautifully illustrated guide to Ireland’s mythical creatures (from leprechauns and clurichauns to all manner of mischievous fairies) and, because every cat owner needs priorities, a tiny book dedicated to teaching your cat Irish. My ancestors came from this part of the world, so I’m choosing to believe this counts as embracing my heritage.
Visit the Cathedral and Climb St. Canice's Round Tower
Our next intended attraction was, naturally, St. Canice’s Cathedral, one of Ireland’s finest mediaeval churches. The current cathedral dates back to the 13th century and stands on a site associated with St. Canice, a sixth-century Irish saint who gave Kilkenny its name.
The real challenge, however, lies just outside.
St. Canice’s Round Tower is one of only two round towers in Ireland that visitors can still climb. Built over a millennium ago, these towers once served as bell towers, landmarks, and places of refuge during Viking raids, terrible events that were a constant threat to monasteries, particularly those close to the coast, during that era.
I tackled the climb solo, and “climb” may be putting it politely. The ascent consists of a series of incredibly steep wooden ladders. It’s not ideal if you have mobility challenges, claustrophobia, or if heights aren’t your thing, which, for me, they aren’t, but I’m just that otherworldly weirdo who will climb towers anyway.
Reaching the top felt like earning a medal or at least a pat on the back.
Instead, I was greeted by gale-force winds that were only too determined to blow me straight back down. It was moments like this that made me incredibly grateful I had my CACOE cross-body phone lanyard attached to my phone. Thankfully, the spectacular 360-degree views across Kilkenny’s rooftops, cathedral spires, and surrounding countryside made every shaky step worthwhile.
Enjoy a Long Lunch at Kyteler's Inn
No visit to Kilkenny is complete without stepping inside Kyteler’s Inn, a pub old enough to have rubbed its stoney shoulders with “The Pestilence” of the mid 14th century. Established in 1324 by Alice Kyteler, the inn has become almost as famous for its ghost stories as its food.
Alice Kyteler was accused of witchcraft in the 14th century after several wealthy husbands died under rather suspicious circumstances. While she escaped to England before she could be tried, her servant wasn’t so fortunate, becoming the first person in Ireland executed for witchcraft. Whether you believe the legends or not, they certainly add another layer of intrigue to an already historic pub.
Fortunately, our experience was considerably less dramatic but no less delicious.
We tucked into comforting bowls of cream of vegetable soup, crispy fried brie served with salad, and finished with an indulgent sticky toffee pudding. Safe to say, we didn’t feel any cold spots or sense any wicked spirits breathing down our necks – we simply indulged on some excellent food.
Visit Kilkenny Castle
Before leaving town, we made one final stop at Kilkenny Castle.
Although we didn’t have enough time to tour the interior, simply wandering the beautifully maintained grounds was enough to appreciate why it’s one of Ireland’s most iconic castles. Originally built by the Norman lord William Marshal in 1195, the castle has stood watch over the River Nore for more than 800 years and remains the city’s defining landmark.
Even if you’re only passing through, it’s worth stopping for a walk through the gardens and, of course, a few obligatory photos of the castle and the River Nore just below it.
End the Evening at One of Kilkenny's Best Restaurants
Our Kilkenny adventure had actually begun the evening before with an unexpected culinary highlight.
A surprise Bank Holiday meant our original dinner plans (and our backup Italian restaurant) had both stopped serving earlier than usual. Thankfully, Rive Gauche was still welcoming diners at 8 p.m., and what a happy accident it turned out to be.
The restaurant strikes that perfect balance between stylish and relaxed, and every dish we ordered ranged from great to outstanding. We shared duck dumplings, potato leek soup, an indulgently creamy risotto, a vibrant salad, to-die-for sautéed mushrooms with onions, and finished with an exceptional pavlova that seemed to magically disappear far too quickly from our plate.
The evening ended with an equally memorable conversation with one of the restaurant managers, who told us about completing high school in the United States before earning a Fulbright Scholarship to study in Austin, Texas.
It was one of those gentle reminders of the importance of striking up a casual conversation with friendly strangers. You never know what they may share with you!
Is 24 Hours Enough in Kilkenny?
One day in Kilkenny is enough to experience its mediaeval charm, climb one of Ireland’s last accessible round towers, enjoy excellent local food, and soak up centuries of fascinating history. Would I have happily stayed longer? Absolutely!
But if your Irish road trip, like ours, only allows for 24 hours in Kilkenny, you’ll leave with a camera full of mediaeval wonders, a stomach full of fantastic food, and, perhaps, if you’re anything like me, wondering whether your cat has been patiently waiting for you to ask what they’ve been up to… in Gaeilge, of course.
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