¡Ole! Top Destinations and Restaurants to Experience in Spain from a Former Ex-Pat
Ah, Spain, my old home. Indeed, I lived in three different Spanish cities, in three different Spanish provinces, where three different native Spanish languages are spoken, and all over three very Spanish years. What was I doing there, you ask? Well, of course, teaching English, like so many twenty-something-year-old Americans seeking adventure and a life abroad. Simply from a geographical perspective, Spain packs everything for every personal preference. From glorious beaches to sizzling hot deserts, rolling green hills to snow-covered mountains, Atlantic islands to Mediterranean islands. And, like so many other European countries, Spain oozes history with every step you take. To do this fabulous country justice, it would take a couple of months. Most of us do not have that time, though. So here are my top recommendations for large cities to visit nationwide. If you are pressed for time, simply scan for the underlined words for personal recommendations or interesting facts.
1. Madrid
Known for its world-class art museums, Museo Nacional del Prado and Museo Nacional Thyssen-Bornemisza, the Royal Palace, Parque del Retiro, and the bustling shopping street of Gran Vía, Madrid blends culture and old-world charm with a modern flair. Now I know it’s rather stereotypical to state that the capital of a country is anyone’s top recommendation, but Madrid does not disappoint. It packs a lot to see, a lot to do, a lot to eat, and two unforgettable day trips straight from the city. Frankly, although Madrid would be included on this list either way, these day trips push Madrid to the very top.
Dining Recommendations–
Mercado San Miguel– A stone’s throw away from the Plaza Mayor is Mercado San Miguel. Established in 1916, this covered market is the host to many Spanish delicacies. You’ll find everything, from seafood delivered fresh from Galicia, to cheese from Asturias, and massive pans of Paella.
Taberna el Sur– This Spanish jewel of the culinary sciences is just a couple blocks from Antón Martín metro stop. The food is something to behold; gorgeous, divine, and plentiful. Your tastebuds will dance with joy upon the first bite. Their patatas bravas and Solomillo Tenera are wonderful and, for someone who very rarely drinks alcohol, I will graciously admit that their sangria and cocktails are out of this world.
San Ginés– Churros and thick, hot chocolate. Need I say more? Just go!
Day Trips from Madrid
Segovia
At just a thirty-minute train north via Chamartín Station, the pedestrian-friendly small city of Segovia is home to one of the most stunning and well-preserved Roman aqueducts of the Ancient World. Truly, it is breathtaking to view in person! Furthermore, the Alcázar of Segovia was one of the former residences of the Spanish Royal Family and is a gem of Spanish Gothic and Mudéjar architectural styles. An important factor to remember about Segovia is its geography. At over 3,000 feet above sea level and its proximity to often snow-covered mountains, Segovia can be windy and cold from Autumn through Spring. So be sure to bring a warm coat if you’re visiting outside of Summer.
Dining Recommendation–
Restaurante José María– Located in the heart of Segovia is Restaurante José María where I highly recommend you try the local specialty of roasted suckling pig or ‘Cochinillo’. It can be pricey, but if you share with one or two other people, it’s well worth the splurge.
Toledo
Oh, Toledo, perhaps my absolute favorite small city in Spain. Truly, with it dramatically perched atop a hill and its narrow winding cobblestone covered streets, you would think it had been plucked right from a fairy tale. Admittedly, one day is barely enough to experience all Toledo has to offer. So if you prefer a more relaxed trip, I would recommend you spend one or two nights. Plus, exploring the city at night when the streets are illuminated with golden light is quite magical.
To reach Toledo, simply take a thirty-minute train south from Atocha Station. To explore this city is to take a stroll through its incredibly diverse history. The first mentions of it go back over 2000 years when it was inhabited by the Carpetani, one of the many Celtic tribes that inhabited the Iberian Peninsula before it was incorporated into the Roman Empire. Since the Roman occupation, Toledo has been a significant center for Jews, Muslims, and Christians which can be seen represented in many of its buildings such as the Synagogue of Santa María la Blanca, the Alcázar of Toledo, and the Primate Cathedral of Saint Mary of Toledo. Curiously, the Synagogue of Santa María la Blanca was constructed on Christian territory, by Islamic constructors, but for Jewish use and owners, thus showcasing the cooperation of these three major faiths during the Middle Ages. Because of these various cultural representations, Toledo was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Apart from recommending a visit to the aforementioned synagogue, Alcázar, and cathedral, I would further suggest you go to the El Greco Museum (which displays numerous paintings by the famous painter), the Monastery of San Juan de los Reyes, and the Mirador de Valle for a spellbinding view overlooking the city (best experienced during sunset).
Dining Recommendation–
El Trébol– Located just a seven-minute walk away from the Primate Cathedral of Saint Mary of Toledo is El Trébol which translates to ‘The Clover’. It’s been many years since I dined at El Trébol, but I remember my Mother and I enjoying it so much that we went to it twice, a very rare occurrence for either of us. The prices were cheap, the tapas portions were more than adequate, the food was excellent, and the atmosphere could best be described as vibrant and fun. A quick peek at a recent menu and many photos online have shown that nothing has changed, so give El Trébol a try.
2.Sevilla
About a 2-hour and 45-minute train (or slightly more than a one-hour flight southwest of Madrid) is the largest city in the province of Andalucía. I am a sucker for a city steeped in rich history and old, pretty architecture, and whereas many cities scattered around Spain may fit this description, none are more worthy than Sevilla. Its cathedral, which is the largest in Europe and houses the largest stained-glass window in the world, is quite simply the most stunning representation of Gothic architecture in the country. Truly, if you were to visit just one place in Sevilla, make a beeline for this cathedral. You will gawk at its impressive exterior and interior, say hi to the final resting place of the rather divisive historical figure of Christopher Colombus and his wildly ornate tomb, and, if you so choose, climb the over 100-meter-tall clock tower called La Giralda, which functioned as the former minaret of the mosque that once stood at the site during Muslim rule.
Sevilla contains more than just a fabulous cathedral, as located right next to it is the Real Alcázar. This fabulous Moorish palace contains some of the most intricate mosaics, arabesque motifs, and gardens which are only bested by the Alhambra in Granada. However, unlike the Alhambra, the Real Alcázar de Sevilla has been featured in many films and television shows, most notably Game of Thrones. Beyond these sites, I also highly recommend a stroll through the Plaza de España and the Jewish Quarter, which contains one of the oldest synagogues in Europe, the Synagogue of Santa Maria la Blanca. And if all of these sites in Sevilla still do not impress you, then a relaxing stroll through many of its colorful streets packed with excellent shops and food stops surely will.
Dining Recommendations–
No visit to Andalucía is complete without trying the famous chilled soups of salmorejo and gazpacho. Both can be found throughout the province and have a tomato base, but this is where the similarities end, so I recommend you give both a try to discover your favorite.
Bar Alfalfa– This lovely place stands to show that you do not have to spend a small fortune to eat well. Welcome to Bar Alfalfa, where you will find most dishes come in small (tapa), medium (1/2 ración), or large (1 ración), thus making it easy to try a bit of everything and then order a larger portion of your favorite. Just keep in mind they do not take reservations and seating is limited, so be sure not to arrive too far beyond opening.
La Cacharrería– In Spain, it’s rare to find a place that serves brunch and permits you to customize much of their food whichever way you fancy. If you want a croissant sandwich with guacamole, taleggio cheese, serrano ham, and a poached egg, La Cacharrería is there for you. Feel like something a bit sweeter? How about a mini cheesecake with mango and white chocolate or waffles with ice cream, dulce de leche, roasted banana and raspberries, and a lotus cookie? Have I made you hungry yet?
3. Barcelona
Barcelona is about as fabulous a city as it is a popular destination for international tourists seeking a quintessential European holiday. If you do not believe me, ask any of the 11.7 million tourists that visited in 2024. However, it is quite feasible it may not have made this list if not for one Catalonian architect. It is true, after visiting this city several times, I must admit that Barcelona still has not given me that perfect bite from an authentic Spanish delicacy, but where it lacks in tantalizing flavors, it makes up in visual delights thanks to Antoni Gaudí.
It is impossible to effectively describe Gaudí’s work in just a few words, but the little that can be said is that it is unprecedented in the world of architecture. A structure designed by Gaudí can be whimsical, colorful, exotic, mind-bending, and symbolic all in one building. His most famous work is, of course, the Sagrada Familia, and quite frankly it is probably the only church in Spain that must be seen to be believed. This is one heritage site where you will certainly need the audio guide to accompany your visit. Gaudí has left an indelible mark on Barcelona and further of his works can be seen at Park Güell, Casa Batlló, Casa Milà (la Pedrera), Casa Vicens, Palau Güell, and Colònia Güell. If you are short on time, then I would recommend you choose the Sagrada Familia and Park Güell.
Outside of soaking up the architectural wonders of Antoni Gaudí, I highly recommend a visit to my favorite part of the city, the Gothic Quarter. There you will be able to stroll along the narrow streets, hopping into little shops or restaurants here and there, and visit the charming Cathedral of the Holy Cross and Saint Eulalia (if you visit this cathedral on Sundays at midday or Saturdays at 6:30 PM, you will be able to witness the traditional Catalan dance called La Sardana). If you still have not had your fill of beautiful architecture, then a visit to the top of Mt. Tibidabo to see Sagrat Cor, also known as the Temple of the Sacred Heart of Jesus, should suffice.
Notice I have not said anything about the most popular street in the city, La Rambla, and this is because it’s just.. meh. It’s always very busy with tourists and restaurants are overpriced and not that good. I will say if you like trinkets or small souvenirs, La Rambla is a decent place to find these, just beware of pickpockets!
Dining Recommendations–
La Alcoba Azul– Nestled in the Gothic Quarter is the lovely La Alcoba Azul. The food is quite good and the prices are fairly affordable for an otherwise expensive city. The chefs are very accommodating to any food allergies and have several delicious vegetarian options.
Mercat de la Boqueria– This nearly 200-year-old market is a feast for your eyes and tastebuds; however it is a tourist and local magnet. So if you do not like crowds, either visit when it first opens in the morning or skip it altogether.
4. Bilbao/San Sebastián
Ah, País Vasco, aka The Basque Country, aka my favorite province in Spain. Yeah, I know it’s quite different than the rest of Spain and I certainly recall a few Basque people who would be personally offended if I were to dare call them ‘Spanish’. But regardless of regional and cultural pride, País Vasco is part of Spain and, thus, Bilbao and San Sebastián belong on this list. Honestly, it would be foolish to only visit one over the other as there is only (more or less) a 1 ½ hour-long bus between the two and they are both equally worth your time.
Train, Plane, or Bus?
The tourism board for País Vasco would tell you it’s easy to reach the province, but this is only the case if you are traveling directly to Bilbao and staying there. So here are some travel tips: To reach Bilbao either take a four-hour direct train from Madrid or a short flight (the Bilbao airport is very close to the city). To reach San Sebastián from Madrid is more complicated. There are a couple of direct trains per day that will take five hours more or less, otherwise, you will have to make a change in Valladolid and then take another five-hour train to San Sebastián. If sitting for a long time is perfectly acceptable for you, then you could take a 5 ½ hour-long bus. There are direct (and often very expensive) flights to San Sebastián, but keep in mind that the airport that serves San Sebastián is nowhere near the city (it’s literally on the border of France), meaning you will still have to take public transportation or a ride-share/taxi to reach the city.
So how do I personally recommend you reach País Vasco? It’s simple, either fly direct to Bilbao from a multitude of destinations in Spain and abroad or take the nearly five-hour-long train from Madrid. If you are heading straight to San Sebastián, then fly to Bilbao and then take a 75-minute-long bus from the airport directly to downtown San Sebastián. It’s the simplest, fastest, and probably the most cost-effective way to reach San Sebastián.
Bilbao
Bilbao has the best Old Town/Casco Viejo I’ve seen in Spain. I was honored to have my apartment right in the middle of it! There are numerous shops and excellent food stops to choose from and the Plaza Nueva is delightful. If eclectic architecture and quirky structures are your thing, I highly recommend you head for the Guggenheim Museum. Arachnophobes beware, before you reach it you will walk underneath a giant spider-looking structure; certainly an appropriate foreshadowing for what is to come if you plan to visit the Guggenheim, which does showcase some curious exhibits. Up the stairs to the right of the Guggenheim is the cutest permanent exhibit you may ever see. I’m of course speaking of ‘Puppy’, the world’s largest living flower sculpture shaped like a giant terrier, ahhh. If you want to see him in his flowery best, you must visit in Spring or Summer.
Dining Recommendations–
To be brutally honest, authentic Spanish food is more often than not bland and boring. I remember a lot of French fries, jamón (ham), chorizo (more ham but as a dried sausage), bread, and I rarely saw a salad. Apart from some of Andalucia, seasoning is practically nonexistent, and dreaded spicy food is nowhere to be found. But then I was introduced to exquisite Basque cuisine and the humble ‘pintxo’.
These bite-sized portions of food are most often, but not always, served on a slice of baguette and are synonymous with the Basque Country as much as ‘tapas’ are synonymous with the rest of Spain. The main difference between a ‘pintxo’ and a ‘tapa’ is pintxos are usually too small to be shared. Another difference is that a pintxo is often (but not always) already premade and laid out on a counter for all to see. All you do is point at which ones you want and they are given to you on a plate (although there may also be times when you are urged to self-serve). Sometimes you pay immediately but more frequently you pay after you eat (and yes the waiter will remember what you ordered). By the way, if you want to sound like a local when you need the check, say “‘la cobra, porfa’ or ‘la cuenta, porfa’.” Don’t say “necesito pagar” because you’ll receive a funny or confused look in return.
Mercado de La Ribera– Oh how I miss this market! I loved it so much that every Friday I would celebrate the end of the week by dining on the delicacies contained within its walls. It is an absolute must for everyone visiting Bilbao! This is where you can try the divine and utterly unique ‘Basque Cheesecake’. Truly, it is not like any cheesecake you’ve ever had. Apart from all the vendors selling anything from seafood to fruits, there are numerous pintxo stalls, and boy are they fun and delicious.
Gure Toki– Located in Plaza Nueva is this precious gem of Basque cuisine. Gure Toki is truly Michelin Star quality for considerably more affordable prices.
Zaharra– I mention this small place in a corner of Plaza Nueva because it’s the only one I recall having a wide variety of Spanish tortillas. Usually, Spanish tortillas (aka a Spanish omelet [but it looks more like a frittata]) are flavorless; they are just eggs mixed with sautéed onions, shaved potatoes, and a bit of salt, and then carefully cooked in a skillet with olive oil. Voilà, you have one of the most popular and authentic dishes in the entire country! But then you have tiny Zaharra shaking up sacred traditions by adding more ingredients, including cheese.
San Sebastián (aka Donostia)
Unless you work in ‘The Industry’ and are heading for the world-renowned San Sebastián International Film Festival, nobody goes here to see the city, you go here to eat it. Yes, I know this sounds weird, but it makes sense when you go here. Food is San Sebastián and San Sebastián is food. It is impossible to separate the two. They are conjoined twins sharing a single spinal cord. You have heard of the phrase ‘bar hopping’ but here there is ‘pintxo bar hopping’; you’ve got to try and catch them all. In San Sebastián, you may find the best food of your life. Thus, it is the law of the land that you arrive hungry and it is an absolute that you leave satiated and a few pounds heavier. ¡Buen provecho!
Dining Recommendations-
Borda Berri– The exquisite food here is more like tapas because it can be shared, but usually not with more than two people. Most dishes are €4-€5, so you can easily order half a dozen and have it still affordable. Try the beef cheek (carrillera de tenera) and risotto!
La Cuchara de San Telmo– This food stop is a small place hidden in the corner of Valle Lersundi and Santa Corda. If you love meat, this is the spot for you. Everything is made to order and you have small, medium, or large portions to choose from. Definitely a place you can go alone or with several people. If you want to use their terrace, you must order medium or large portions. The prices are average, but if you go with the large portions you will be paying €20-€30 per plate.
Pastelería Oiartzun– For some reason, Spaniards don’t have much of a sweet tooth. Perhaps this is a good thing, but it is also an unfortunate thing when you are craving a good, fresh pastry. So behold, I present to you a Basque pastry shop and OMG have they got sweet treasures that are guaranteed to satisfy!
5. Santiago de Compostela
Santiago de Compostela, or simply ‘Santiago’ as it is often abbreviated, is a small city in the isolated northwestern province of Galicia. Despite its unassuming size and isolation, it is one of the most desired destinations for hundreds of thousands of foreign visitors every year. This is because Santiago is the end destination of a highly popular up to 500-mile-long pilgrimage called the Camino de Santiago, or simply ‘the Camino’. Indeed, if you were to visit Santiago during summertime, you would see many weary, but elated pilgrims.
The Cathedral of Santiago is held in high esteem because it is believed to be one of the few cathedrals in the world to be built over the tomb of an apostle of Jesus Christ, specifically the Apostle James, and the only one in Spain. It is to this cathedral that pilgrims set out on a journey to reach. Most interestingly of all, it is not only Catholics who embark on the Camino but people of all religious denominations or lack thereof. Indeed, my own ‘spiritual’ mother, has walked the Camino and she had the nearly foot-size blister to prove it.
The Cathedral of Santiago is not only desired because of the Tomb of St. James but also because it is a stunningly beautiful example of Mediaeval Spanish architecture. Truly, apart from the cathedral in Sevilla, the Cathedral of Santiago is the only other cathedral in Spain that took my breath away upon first sight. Furthermore, Santiago has a unique element of, shall I say tranquility. Hmm, perhaps I feel this sentiment because I spent many evenings wandering the softly illuminated empty granite streets of the Old Town only to stumble upon a local singing opera to no one in particular.
Dining Recommendations-
First and foremost, no visit to Galicia is complete without ordering a plate (or several) of Pimientos de Padrón, a mild but supremely flavorful small green pepper sautéed to perfection and sprinkled with salt flakes. You can find these peppers throughout Galicia, but they are a rarity during wintertime. Much to the chagrin of many Spaniards who love their Spanish Tortillas, croquetas, and Jamón Serrano, it is the little but mighty Pimientos de Padrón that are my absolute favorite snack in Spain.
La Bodeguilla de San Roque– Truly this local restaurant on the outskirts of the Old Town had some of the best food I tried in the country. As I lived not far from Santiago, I returned to La Bodeguilla numerous times and even chose it to celebrate my birthday. I recommend the Iberian pork loin entrée and the goat cheese salad. Furthermore, La Bodeguilla offers a very healthy selection of Spanish wines to accompany your meal.
Taberna O Gato Negro– Although I never developed a taste for seafood, I have been assured by both locals and foreigners that O Gato Negro, a small spot nestled in the Old Town, is the place for any Galician mollusk, bivalve, crustacean, and fish alike.
6. Granada
Two main experiences make Granada a magical place to visit: The Moorish fortress and palace of the Alhambra and raw Flamenco in the Caves of Sacramonte, everything else is just icing on the cake.
The Alhambra is a breathtaking architectural masterpiece perched atop a hill on the outskirts of the city. From the outside, it gives the appearance of an impenetrable fortress, yet within its walls lies a world of intricate Mudéjar architecture, arabesque patterns, and serene courtyards. As you make your way through this UNESCO World Heritage site, you will hear the tranquil echo of trickling water from its many fountains. Visiting the Alhambra is an experience in and of itself and is not to be rushed.
It is imperative that you book your ticket to the Alhambra months in advance, especially if you plan on visiting during the high season. There are different types of tickets on the main website, so research which one best fits your interests. Otherwise, I would recommend you go with the ‘Alhambra General’ ticket. If your preferred dates are not available on the main website, you might find tickets through an independent tour company. One thing to take note of is that ice can build up on the exterior grounds of the Alhambra during Winter. If you do not want to risk having a potentially slippery experience, it’s best to avoid this time of year.
Flamenco is a passionately intense and expressive artistic dance that originated in Andalucía with influences from Roma (Gypsy), Moorish, Jewish, and other Andalucían cultures. Some 50,000 Roma call Granada home, most of them living within caves in the cliffs of Sacramonte. This is where you can experience the rawest Flamenco in Spain. Through various websites, you can purchase tickets that include a Flamenco show, a cocktail, and sometimes a dinner. My mother and I went with Cueva de la Rocío and we were not disappointed!
Dining Recommendation–
El Mercader– This place serves what I like to call ‘Happy Food’. It’s just good, fresh, delicious, and beautifully plated. And they’ve got vegetarian options and salads! In a country that prides itself on its meat and seafood, finding a wide variety of delicious vegetarian options is so refreshing. I understand this place might not serve pure, authentic Spanish food, but so what? It’s good and it’ll put a smile on your face!
7. Córdoba
Like Sevilla and Granada, Córdoba represents a captivating fusion of ancient cultures. But what Córdoba has that Sevilla and Granada seem to lack is charm. Maybe it is the whitewashed buildings, the narrow labyrinthine streets, or the sun-drenched courtyards with flower-filled patios that make Córdoba a truly charming place to visit. There’s also the iconic Mezquita, a grand mosque-turned-cathedral. Whereas the Alhambra in Granada is beautiful, the Mezquita is both fascinating and inspiring. For any budding photographers reading this, you will have fun photographing the inside of this heritage site. One thing to keep in mind about Córdoba is that the city has some of the hottest temperatures in all of Europe. If you plan on visiting between June and September, you are just asking to roast like an egg in a frying pan.
Dining Recommendations–
Taberna San Cristóbal– Rabo de toro (aka oxtail) is the local specialty of Córdoba and Taberna San Cristóbal is an excellent place to try it. If oxtail does not strike your fancy, there are numerous other dishes to select from their menu. We particularly enjoyed the berenjenas fritas (fried eggplant).
